SHAHEED MINAR ... OCHTERLONY MONUMENT ... the Oldest Calcutta Icon !!

Every great City has its own icons. One or more architectural marvel/s that define/s the exclusivity of the location. Taj Mahal indicates Agra, Charminar to Hyderabad, Eiffel Tower to Paris, Colosseum to Rome and many more. Calcutta is also not an exception. Though the City is much younger in age compared to the above examples, but the City of Joy indeed has an unique character and obviously some splendid icons. 

Ask any random Calcuttan about five architectures which he thinks define our City. I can bet, the answer will definitely include the following three: Victoria Memorial, Howrah Bridge and Shaheed Minar. While the former two has not yet been 100 years old, Shaheed Minar is on the verge of completing two centuries of existence.

Though the catchline of my blog states 'Know the Unknown' but WANDERLUST decided to explore this widely recognised tall beauty as there are no detailed article on internet about Calcutta's very own 'Monument', except wikipedia !! (at least as on the date of article).

OCHTERLONY MONUMENT -

The 'Monument' was formerly or originally known as the Ochterlony Monument, built in the memory and honour of Sir David Ochterlony, Commander of the British East India Company. After his death in 1825, the monument was planned and construction started in that very same year. The architect of the tower was J. B. Parker and under the consultancy of Charles Knowles Robison, it was constructed by Burn & Company which had later merged with Sir R N Mukherjee's Martin & Co. and formed Martin Burn Limited. Like many other heritage structures of Calcutta, this was also funded by the public subscription. The construction costs were around 35000 rupees. The landmark was completed in 1828.

Aerial View of Shaheed Minar on a foggy wintry morning : Image Courtesy & Copyright - Sandip De

This cloud-kissing monument was designed following the Islamic architectural style. The entire monument reflects three different designs through its base, column and the dome.

The foundation is based on the Egyptian style and an artificial one. 82 Sal logs, each 20 ft. long, were drove into the ground keeping their head 8 ft. below the surface level. Over them, a strong teakwood frame was laid and over that 8 ft. of solid masonry was built. 

The square base is actually the entrance to the monument. Ornamented by circular corinthian leaf garland on each of its three sides, the entrance is through the North. The iron gate and the motifs on and above it are similar to that of an ancient Egyptian architecture. The motif of two vultures (most probably) spreading their feathery wings, known as 'wings of desire' will attract one's eyes for sure. On the upper part of the base, there are Corinthian leaf designs below the parapet that are still prominent.

The classical fluted column above the base is a brickwork with Syrian style upper portion. The column is topped by two balconies and a red bronze dome, specifically a Turkish cupola. The 218 step serpentine staircase is constructed of Chunar stone, leading you to the first balcony while another 7 steps goes to the top floor.

The total height of the monument is 152 ft. whereas some claims it to be 157 ft.

There is a story that just before the Monument was completed, a dinner party was held on the top of the shaft which was then 3 ft. above the second balcony at an elevation of 145 ft. from the ground. The seats were arranged around the balcony with a secure temporary railing protecting the guests. Old chronicles describe the party as an 'unique and hilarious function' which did not terminate until the 'unusual hour' of nine o'clock at night !!

WHO WAS DAVID OCHTERLONY?

Before the Ochterlony monument was renamed (I am coming to that part later), the massive pedestral below the column bore a circular disc of white marble with the following inscription: "Sir David Ochterlony, Baronet, Grand Cross of the Military Order of the Bath, Major General in the Army of Bengal, died at Meerut on the 15th July, 1825. The people of Bengal, natives and European, to commemorate his services as a statesman and a soldier, have in grateful admiration raised this column."

Born in Boston of colonial America, Ochterlony came to India as a cadet in 1777. Posted as the Resident in Delhi, Major General Ochterlony's first success was defending Delhi against the attack of Maratha Yashwantrao Holkar in 1804. He also led the company's armed forces to victory in the Anglo-Nepalese war of 1814-16. The aftermath of this war consists of two interesting points for which present India should remember David Ochterlony.

1. The victory of the British over the Gurkhas resulted in the Treaty of Sugauli by which almost one-third of the then Nepal's territory were handed over to the British which include present Sikkim, Darjeeling, Kumaon and Garhwal. These areas were eventually became part of Independent India.
2. Ochterlony was quick to recognise the potential of Nepalese soldiers in British service. His confidence in their loyalty was such that he appointed 5000 Gurkhas in the Army and formed an entire battalion called Nasiri regiment in 1815. From then on Gurkhas remained as the backbone of Indian Army - be it British India or Independent India.

As the official British Resident at Delhi, Ochterlony was thoroughly embraced Persian Mughal culture. Possibly, due to this reason, the Monument was designed after the Islamic architectural style. He had 13 Indian concubines or wives, most notable of whom was Moobaruck Begum, a brahmin dancing girl from Pune who had converted to Islam. Being Ochterlony's favourite, her nickname was 'Generallee Begum'.

In 1825, over a contradiction with Governor General Lord Amherst, he resigned and retired to Delhi. Later while staying at Meerut he breathed his last in the very same year.

SHAHEED MINAR -

During the reign of United Front Government in 1969, under the Chief Ministership of Ajay Mukherjee, it was decided that Ochterlony monument would be rechristened as Shaheed Minar or the Martyrs' Monument in memory of the martyrs of Indian Freedom Struggle. The decision became effective from 9th August, 1969.

BRIGADE PARADE GROUND or MAIDAN -

The vast green field to the south of Shaheed Minar is known as Shaheed Minar Maidan or Brigade Parade Ground. It is under the ownership of Indian Army. 'Brigade' literally means a subdivision of an army. The entire Maidan field or the 'Green before the Court' in the British era, was originally developed as a 5 sq. km. area for parade of British forces. Now it is the 'Lungs of Kolkata'. Now-a-days, very often Brigade Parade ground holds political rallies (the City's every nook and corner get covered by 'Brigade Cholo' posters). But the first ever political meeting was held here in 1931 and presided over by none other than Rabindranath Tagore, to condemn the killing of an youth in Hijli by British.

The balconies of Shaheed Minar offers a magnificent panoramic view of Kolkata but the entry is restricted. In 1997, a tourist jumped off the lower balcony of the Monument and the entry was prohibited since then. At present, after the renovation of the structure, if one wish to climb up, he/she can do so by taking prior permission from Lalbazar, the Kolkata Police HQ.

I am not providing the location of Shaheed Minar here because giving the direction of Shaheed Minar would be an overemphasis on useless detail !!

Special Mention:

• I am indebted to Brian Paul Bach, the author of Calcutta's Edifice as he mailed me the extract of Ochterlony Monument from his book, without which the post would have been incomplete. Check out Brian's blog here.
• The copyright of the aerial image of Shaheed Minar is reserved by Sandip De and the Sandipdephotography domain. It is a screenshot of a video, that I have used but without a prior permission. The use is purely non-commercial in nature. Check the splendid video made by Sandip De here.

Acknowledgement:

• Calcutta Old & New by H. E. A. Cotton
• Kolikata Ekaler O Sekaler by Harisadhan Mukhopadhyay
• Calcutta's Edifice: The Buildings of a Great City by Brian Paul Bach
• Wikipedia