PARK STREET ... officially known as Mother Teresa Sarani. Was the renaming justified? Stalwart Historian, former Chairman of the West Bengal Heritage Commission and an erstwhile Park Street Resident himself, Shri Barun De chose to disagree (read Late Barun De's article here). There is no doubt that opinion of many Calcuttans would just be an echo of what late De wrote. The 2004 rechristening certainly hampers the grandeur of this majestic pathway. But as we are not here to debate on the right or wrong, let us get back to the game, let's focus on the History now.
Park Street abbreviates a landmark that existed in the late 18th century, where the Loreto Convent now stands. It was a DEER PARK, included the residence of Sir Elijah Impey (a Warren Hastings henchman, first Chief Justice of the Supreme Court in Bengal and the man who ordered Maharaja Nanda Kumar's death sentence for forgery). The street was then called Road to the Burial Grounds as depicted in Aaron Upjohn's Map of 1793. There were three at the eastern end, French Cemetery, North Park Street Cemetery and South Park Street Cemetery or Great Cemetery. Later the former two were desecrated to build today's structures.
With the passage of time, Park Street evolved from Burial Ground Road to Calcutta's most elegant pathway and continued to be so. Stately mansions came up at the spots where Warren Hastings once used to hunt tigers. As the 19th century reached its end, Park Street became the address of City's dignified architectures. Asiatic Society, St. Xaviers College, Murshidabad House, Survey of India, just to name a few and the residence of many British bureaucrats and the people from other ethnic communities.
Today, Park Street is the City's brand label for fine restaurants and evening life. Popularly referred as 'Food Street' and 'The Street that Never Sleeps'. Behind this widely acclaimed recognition, initial credit goes to two Swiss Gentleman, Mr. Flury and Mr. Trinca. Their friendship changed the Park Street forever.
Park Street abbreviates a landmark that existed in the late 18th century, where the Loreto Convent now stands. It was a DEER PARK, included the residence of Sir Elijah Impey (a Warren Hastings henchman, first Chief Justice of the Supreme Court in Bengal and the man who ordered Maharaja Nanda Kumar's death sentence for forgery). The street was then called Road to the Burial Grounds as depicted in Aaron Upjohn's Map of 1793. There were three at the eastern end, French Cemetery, North Park Street Cemetery and South Park Street Cemetery or Great Cemetery. Later the former two were desecrated to build today's structures.
With the passage of time, Park Street evolved from Burial Ground Road to Calcutta's most elegant pathway and continued to be so. Stately mansions came up at the spots where Warren Hastings once used to hunt tigers. As the 19th century reached its end, Park Street became the address of City's dignified architectures. Asiatic Society, St. Xaviers College, Murshidabad House, Survey of India, just to name a few and the residence of many British bureaucrats and the people from other ethnic communities.
Today, Park Street is the City's brand label for fine restaurants and evening life. Popularly referred as 'Food Street' and 'The Street that Never Sleeps'. Behind this widely acclaimed recognition, initial credit goes to two Swiss Gentleman, Mr. Flury and Mr. Trinca. Their friendship changed the Park Street forever.
From 'Flury's & Trinca's' to 'Flury's' -
In British days, though the Taverns are quite common in Calcutta but not many Tearooms were there. A tearoom is a small room or restaurant where beverages and light meals are served. Two Swissman took this opportunity and opened what was later became a synonym for Calcutta's finest eatery. Mr. Joseph Flury and Mr. Trinca shared a great bond. Their joint venture 'Flury's & Trinca's' started in 1926 at the spot where Flurys stands today. Mr. Flury's wife Mrs. Freida Flury was also a key promoter in this initiative.
The tearoom served Colonial Calcutta's sophisticated crowd for almost a decade till 1936 when the partnership split. The legend goes that Mr. Flury ran away with Mrs. Trinca and this was the supposed reason of the fallout. It became 'Flurys' and continued to maintain its charm of a fine tearoom. Mr. Trinca started another tearoom called 'Trincas' across the street.
However, in 1965 the ownership changed. One of the founders of Apeejay Surrendra Group, late Jit Paul made an offer to Mr. Joseph Flury which he couldn't refuse.
In 2004, Flurys was given a fresh design that recalls 1930's. As the only tearoom for prosperous European and affluent Indian, the place was known far and wide for its exotic cakes, creamy pastries and best hand made Swiss Chocolates. Now a days, it provides one of the best breakfast in Kolkata which even includes 'Jogger's Breakfast' which are made, keeping in mind the morning walker's calorie count. The eatery still serves some items which were introduced in the repetoire between the 20's and 60's. You would get the menu here.
The tearoom served Colonial Calcutta's sophisticated crowd for almost a decade till 1936 when the partnership split. The legend goes that Mr. Flury ran away with Mrs. Trinca and this was the supposed reason of the fallout. It became 'Flurys' and continued to maintain its charm of a fine tearoom. Mr. Trinca started another tearoom called 'Trincas' across the street.
However, in 1965 the ownership changed. One of the founders of Apeejay Surrendra Group, late Jit Paul made an offer to Mr. Joseph Flury which he couldn't refuse.
In 2004, Flurys was given a fresh design that recalls 1930's. As the only tearoom for prosperous European and affluent Indian, the place was known far and wide for its exotic cakes, creamy pastries and best hand made Swiss Chocolates. Now a days, it provides one of the best breakfast in Kolkata which even includes 'Jogger's Breakfast' which are made, keeping in mind the morning walker's calorie count. The eatery still serves some items which were introduced in the repetoire between the 20's and 60's. You would get the menu here.
Trinca's: from Tearoom to Nightclub -
After severing the chord from Flurys, Mr. Trinca opened his own tearoom called 'Trincas' at its present spot. In 1959, Trinca's tearoom was bought by two friends (once again!), Ellis Joshua and Om Prakash Puri and they converted it into a restaurant cum night club.
They are friends who had been working in the Oberoi Grand Hotel for 16 years. When this opportunity arised they took over the reins at Trinca's and decided to revamp the erstwhile tearoom into a restaurant. After successfully getting the bar licence in 1961, Trincas turned into a nightclub. But unlike the earlier one, this friendship did continue till 2002 when both passed away.
Mocambo, opened in 1956, was probably Independent India's first night club but it is the Trincas where music has never stopped, be it the downturn caused by the Naxalite movement in 70's or the 30% entertainment tax slapped by the State Govt.
Trincas also gave birth to some legends. Joshua would always look out for new musical talent. He was the one who saw Usha Uthup performing at Mysore and convinced her to come to Calcutta and the rest is history now.
Park Street has not lost its past glory over the years but behind the curtain the friendships like these played a pivotal role. KIYUNKI HAR EK FRIEND ZAROORI HOTA HAI !!
Acknowledgement:
- Calcutta - Old and New by H E A Cotton
- Various articles of The Telegraph and Times of India Archive, without which this would not be possible.
- Flurys Website
- Image Courtesy - www.google.co.in
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