4 OVERLOOKED MEMORIALS... Prince... Nawab... Maharaja... Artist !!

On the streets of Calcutta there are innumerable relics, monuments, memorials, plaques; reminding us of our Colonial past but these have sunk in oblivion of public memory, obliterated by parked vehicles or the tarpaulin sheets of roadside vendors or simply lying forgotten behind the weeds. There is hardly any signage to indicate either their background or historical value. 

If you take a tour across Dalhousie-Esplanade area, which was once called 'Town Calcutta' and was the first developed area in the city, you will spot many such architectural marvels. 

My today's article will indeed highlight four of them, generally overlooked by the daily commuters passing by.

PRINCE OF WALES VISIT MEMORIAL, FAIRLIE PLACE -

Situated at the crossing of Fairlie Place and Strand Road, in the North-West corner of Eastern Railway Headquarter, a dilapidated structure, symbol of a bygone era. 'Graded List of Heritage Buildings' by KMC marks it as 'Prince of Wales Visit Memorial'. Before discussing its historical backdrop, here is the excerpt from 'Calcutta's Edifice' by Brian Paul Bach in this regard - "...a substantial and charming piece of stone...this piece of 'street adornment' speaks of late, late, late Mughal tastes...where Indo-Saracenic ideas run cheerfully amok...a circular arch with thorny cusps and flowery relief decoration, make the kiosk a festive addition to a serious streetscape...the hue of the stone is similar to the Sonhiri (Golden) Masjid near the Red Fort in Delhi...". In my opinion, there couldn't be a better elucidation to describe the architecture. Let's focus on its history then.

Now a days used as a tea-stall and a make-shift shelter, the surroundings of the structure will prevent you to have a close look. But if you can make it at the end, you will find an inscription on the front arch, almost blurred but can be arranged in a fill-in-the-blank way.

ERECTED BY

NAWAB ____UL _UNN_ CSI

AND HIS SON

NAWAB AHSONOLL__ KHAN BAHADOOR OF DA___

TO COMMEMORATE _____ OF HIS _____

HIGHNESS ALBERT EDWARD PRINCE OF WALES

Once deciphered, it tells us that the structure was built at the initiative of Nawab Abdul Gunny (first Nawab of Dacca) and his son Nawab Ahsonollah Khan to mark the visit of His Royal Highness Prince of Wales Albert Edward or simply Edward VII to Calcutta, who ascended the throne after Queen Victoria in 1901. Various Sources suggests that Prince of Wales set off for India on an extensive eight-month tour of the sub-continent in October, 1875 along with his spouse and arrived in Calcutta in December, 1875 just before the Christmas (Prince of Wales Visit in India, Sub-continent & Europe). 

Nawab Abdul Gunny was the first Nawab of Dhaka recognised by the British Empire. During the Sepoy Mutiny of 1857, he supported the British Raj. As a token of loyalty, he was decorated with Companion of Star of India (CSI) in 1871 and ultimately vested with the hereditary title of Nawab during  the visit of Prince of Wales in 1875. He was succeeded by his son Nawab Ahsanullah, who in line of his father, was a great ally to the British Empire. A notable philanthropist and Urdu litterateur by passion, Nawab Ahsanullah was awarded Knight Commander of Indian Empire (KCIE) before his death. It can be easily anticipated that recognition from the British Empire prompted the Nawabs of Dacca in building the memorial.

At a present state of disrepair, this monument needs an immediate renovation work, unless the part of history would be lost forever. A year ago, I sent a mail  to INTACH, reporting the dilapidated state of the monument. The quick reply from their side stated that the plan for its renovation is awaiting approval from KMC !!

PRINCE OF WALES VISIT MEMORIAL, ESPLANADE -

As a surprising matter of fact, the Prince of Wales Visit Memorial has a twin, at Esplanade. Just on the left hand side of Tipu Sultan Mosque entrance, it stands. Almost covered by hoardings, banners and leaflets, this is just a shadow of its counterpart at Fairlie. 23 years ago, in the early morning of 5th February, 1992, a tram car got derailed and hit the structure, damaging its dome and carved pillars. Post repair, Cusps and Arch were completely gone, leaving only the inscription, visibly more prominent than the Fairlie version, though the inscriptions are almost same, probably built around the same time. 

STATUE OF MAHARAJA OF DARBHANGA, DALHOUSIE SQUARE -

Overgrown foliage and regular traffic of BBD Bag often hide it from the view, but if you ever have a chance to spot it, do stop by and admire the statue of Maharaja of Darbhanga, Lakshmishwar Singh at south-west corner of Dalhousie square. 

Maharaja Lakshmishwar Singh was the most notable in the Darbhanga Raj Family. Considered as the most notable philanthropist of that time, he donated generously on public charities including a donation of 3,00,000 Pound during the infamous Bengal Famine. Maharaja was also the principal donor for the Indian National Congress during its set up days as well as he took active part in debates on Bengal Tenancy Act, 1885. As a member of Supreme Legislative Council, he was close to the prominent British bureaucrats.

H.E.A.Cotton said about him "Few Asiatics have combined more successfully in themselves the apparently incompatible characteristics of East & West".

The statue was unveiled by Sir Andrew Fraser, Lieutenant Governor of Bengal, on March 25, 1904, in the presence of eminent personalities like Sir Gurudas Banerjee, Raja Peary Mohan Mukherjee and many more.

The statue in white marble is in every way exceptional than those of other notable Indians in the vicinity. Unlike most other statues of the era which are found to be in standing posture, this particular one has the Maharaja sitting upon his ornamental throne with a scimitar in the right hand and a shield in the left and wearing the ancestral head dress of his family and chain of a Knight Grand Commander (GCIE) of the Order of the Indian Empire. Each and every detail had been carved with such a perfection, rendering it as an priceless work of art of the era.

Another significance of the statue is, it is the last and the only known work commissioned in India by the eminent British Sculptor Edward Onslow Ford.

After the unfortunate demolition of Darbhanga Raj Palace at 42, Chowringhee Road by the real estate giants, this statue is now the sole link between the Royal Darbhanga Raj Family and the City of Joy.

COLESWORTHEY GRANT MEMORIAL, BBD BAG -  

After the shift of Bengal Government Headquarter from Writers' Building to Nabanna, one can now have a free and casual walk in front of Writers' and enjoy the grand architecture which was actually the first triple-decker building in Calcutta. But as a former seat of the Government, you will still find military kiosks in front of the building. Just beside such a kiosk on the southern front, a simple obelisk painted in white will definitely attract a curious mind. Heads of lions adorning the either sides of the base, a (marble?) plaque is in the middle telling you that it is a tribute to Colesworthey Grant, founder of the Calcutta Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (CSPCA). But Grant's contribution was not confined to being an animal right activist only.

Grant, a Londoner, came to India in 1832 at the age of 19. He earned his name as an artist and draftsman. He made lithographic sketches of notable British including Charles Metcalfe, Earl of Auckland, Bishop Wilson. Compilation of his letters to his sisters in England published as 'Rural Life in Bengal' in 1860 is thoroughly illustrated by sketches depicting Anglo-Indian Officialdom, its customs, archaic rural practices, social customs, manufacturing & trade, village life, indigo manufacture and so forth. Another compilation of his delightful letters written to his mother in England published as 'Anglo-Indian Domestic Life' in 1862 is another interesting reading. Several pages of this book are devoted to the list of domestic servants in colonial home, description of the then Burrabazar area, illustration on different communities of traders like Persians, Marwaris, Armenians, Chinese, Burmese and obviously the Bengalees trading in jewels of Golconda, Shawls of Kashmir, Silks of Benaras, Muslins of Dacca and many more. 

But apart from an artistic personality, Grant was an animal lover. He used to work in the building on the north-east corner of Dalhousie Square, where now stands Stephen House. He had set up a drinking fountain in the north-eastern corner of Laldighi for horses (which is now replaced by a public toilet!!). Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (SPCA) is an animal welfare organization established in England in 1824. Moved by the animal suffering, he established the Calcutta Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (CSPCA) - the first such society in India or even in Asia on October 4, 1861. Lord Elgin was the first patron of the Society. Together with Baboo Peary Charan Mitra, a member of the Bengal Council, Grant able to get the first act in India for prevention of cruelty to animals passed by the Bengal Council on October 28, 1869. CSPCA is still operating in Kolkata from its office at 276, B B Ganguly Street.  

After his death in 1880, the memorial was built in front of the Writers' Building as a tribute to the noble man. One could see his Mausoleum at the South Park Street Cemetery.

The following is the extract from the Google Map pointing to all five locations in Central Calcutta, worth of a visit !

These structures are the part of our city's heritage, part of our rich past. Our ignorance will only lead to a great loss. So I urge to ASI and INTACH through my blogpost to please come forward to protect the marvels from extinction.

Special Thanks -

1. Rangan Datta - for informing about the Prince of Wales Visit Memorial Twin at Esplanade.

2. Deepanjan Ghosh - for providing information about Drinking Fountain set up by Grant.
3. Somnath Ghosh - for informing about the Tram Accident of Prince of Wales Visit Memorial Twin                                   at Esplanade.

Acknowledgement -

1. Calcutta's Edifice - Brian Paul Bach

2. Kolkata On Wheels Magazine - Two well informative article by Anindita Mazumdar.