HOOGHLY IMAMBARA ... From a Businessman's Abode To the Divine Shrine !!

With roughly a month to go for the observation of Mourning of Muharram, WANDERLUST explores in its 17th post, a splendid Islamic Architecture of fading grandeur - HOOGHLY IMAMBARA, a holy Muslim shrine on the western bank of Bhagirathi-Hooghly river.

Read on...

IMAMBARA & ITS ASSOCIATION WITH MUHARRAM -

An Imambara should not be confused with a Mosque. While a Mosque is the place of worship for all the denominations of Islam and holds Juma'at or Friday Prayer, an Imambara is specifically a congregation hall for commemoration ceremonies of Shia denomination, especially those associated with the Remembrance of Muharram. It is a Shia Institution for perpetuating the memory of Twelve Imams of Islam. Actual Islamic term for an Imambara is 'Hussainia' which is etymologically derived from the name of Husayn Ibn Ali, the grandson of Muhammad who was killed in the battle of Karbala in 680 AD. Remembrance or Mourning of Muharram is observed in memory of Husayn Ibn Ali who was also a Shia Imam. In South Asia, an Imambara is also known as Ashurkhana or Imambargah.

HOOGHLY IMAMBARA -

At the first glance, the majestic grandeur of this riverbank structure would certainly make any of its visitor awestruck! As you enter the premise through the grand main gate ornamented with multi-foil cusped arch and beautiful but decrepit motifs, the journey will begin.

Residence of Muhammad Aga Motahar - 

The earliest trace of any establishment at the spot dates back to very first decade of 18th century when Muhammad Aga Motahar, a Persian Salt Merchant arrived at Hooghly. He constructed a simple one-storied building with the aim of residing with his family for the rest of his life. Unfortunately though a wealthy man, he led an unhappy family life. Eventually in 1717 AD he dedicated his establishment to almighty Allah and christened it as 'Nazargah Hossein'. In 1735 his son-in-law Mirza Saleh-ud-din added another building to it which was named 'Tazia Khana'. 

The vivid description of the then structure can be found in the 'A Sketch of the Administration of the Hooghly District' published in 1888 by George Toynbee, the Collector & Magistrate of Hooghly District. Toynbee's description states that it was an ordinary one-storied building. However the portion of Imambara where later Mutwalis (Managers) were used to stay was two-storied at Motahar's time. On the southern side there was the public road. Inside the structure there existed a prayer hall on the east, pillars were of quadrangular form, painted with black and white strips. The range of rooms on the southern side were either used by the officials or used as Toshakhana (Treasury). The establishment was sufficiently spacious.

The present day Imambara was constructed just upon the debris of the older one. Hazi Muhammad Mohsin, a notable philanthropist of the era and a relative of Muhammad Motahar, dedicated the whole of his fortune in favour of Imambara, for construction and proper maintenance.

Hazi Muhammad Mohsin -

Mohsin was born to Hazi Faizullah and Zainab Khanam (Zainab's first husband was Md. Motahar) in Hooghly in 1732. Muhammad Motahar's daughter Mannu Jan Khanam was his half-sister. As Mirza Saleh-ud-din and Mannu Jan was a childless couple, Muhammad Mohsin became the only successor of the entire fortune left by Md. Motahar, Mirza Saleh-ud-din and Mannu Jan after Mannu Jan's death in 1803 and also inherited his father Hazi Faizullah's belongings. In this way the property of present Imambara was passed on to Mohsin. 3 years later he bequeathed this fortune for charity and created a Waq'f or Trust in 1806 with his entire wealth of Rs.156000. As per his deed the entire fortune, after paying Government Revenues, was distributed in the following manner:

• One-third was to be donated for religious programmes and maintenance of Imambara.
• Two-ninth for the expenses of the two trustees.
• Four-ninth for the payments of servants of the establishment.

Mohsin had immense contributions in the field of education too. Hooghly Mohsin College of Chinsurah was established by him. He had also donated to a great extent during the infamous Bengal Famine of 1769-70. Mohsin died in 1812 leaving behind his noble mark forever. 

Construction of Imambara -

After Mohsin passed away in 1812, the Trustees or Mutwallis appointed by him couldn't follow the right path they were supposed to. A major part of the wealth was misappropriated due to the insincerity and dishonesty of these Mutwallis appointed from time to time. Finally the Government took charge of the Imambara. On 3rd Januray, 1837 Syed Keramat Ali, a noble architect from Jaunpur, Rajasthan, was appointed as Mutwalli. Being conversant with Geometry and Science, he got the charge of constructing the new Imambara. For the purpose the aid of the then PWD and plans from M/s Burns & Co. were called in. The construction started in August, 1845 as noted in Hooghly Past and the Present by Sambhu Chandra Dey. It took a span of 20 years to complete at the cost of Rs.850000 according to the biography of Hazi Muhammad Mohsin by Hashmat Ali. In 1875 Syed Keramat Ali breathed his last. Before that he handed over his authority to Maulvi Syed Ashraf Uddin, the eldest son of Nawab Amir Ali. Finally a committee was formed in 1876 to take care of Imambara. 

Architecture of Imambara -

Imambara opens with a lofty, multi-foil cusped arch doorway leading to a vast concrete courtyard with a rectangular tank in the middle. A decorative cement fountain is at the centre of the tank, probably not working anymore. People visiting the Imambara can feed the colourful fishes and children really enjoy doing so. 

The courtyard is surrounded with two-storied buildings which are now used for official purposes. At the east end of the courtyard lies Zaridalan, the main prayer hall of Imambara. The ornamentation inside the Zaridalan is really splendid though photography is prohibited. The chequered black and white marble floor, magnificent lanterns and chandeliers hanging from the roof, flawless Belgian glasses throughout the room will surely amaze you. The walls of the room are covered with lines from 'Hadish', the maxims of Prophet Muhammad. There is a seven stared throne of the Imam  and his disciples take seat just before the throne while he delivers his speeches. Common people are not allowed inside at the time of prayer but although a separate sitting arrangement for women are there in the balconies. The outside walls of Zaridalan also contains inscriptions from 'Hadish' (or it could be verses from Quran, staffs present there were unable to confirm!!) but in a dilapidated state, mostly decayed with the passage of time and lack of maintenance.

Beside Zaridalan, on the north side of Imambara, a passage leads to the backyard of the building, a green field on the riverbank. The upper wall of the backside contains Mohsin's Deed engraved in both Perso-Arabic Script and English. I will update this article soon with the exact reproduction of the English version of the deed. 

There is a concrete Sundial at the open yard on the eastern most side of the premises. It is a concrete table of approximately 3 ft. height with a fixed wooden hand that still indicates an exact time from the very dawn to the sunset. My father who accompanied me on this trip had visited this place around 35 years ago, he told me that the hand was originally a brass-metal one at that time. God knows what made them replace it !!

The most spectacular wonder of this Imambara is its Clock placed at the middle of the twin towers erected upon the doorway of the main entrance. Each tower is supposed to be 150 ft. high and takes 153 steps to reach its top. 

The clock has two dials, one facing the outer side and the other the inner. The numerals on the dial are in Persian. It has three bells with 30 maunds, 40 maunds and 80 maunds of weight, if converted would amount to 1140 kgs., 1520 kgs. and 3040 kgs. respectively!!! The smaller bells cling at every 15 minutes interval whereas the bigger one clings at one hour interval. This Clock was bought by Syed Keramat Ali from England at a cost of Rs.11721 in 1852. The manufacturer was M/s Black & Murray Co. The Clock possesses a 20 kg winding key which takes two young men to wind the clock for half an hour every week. The twin towers can be accessed through the flight of stairs. The Southern Tower are for the men while the Northern Tower are for the women to access. The top floor of the towers offer a spectacular view of the surrounding areas and river Ganges.

Colourful lanterns and glasses can be spotted throughout the Imambara. The 'Tazia' or the ornamented chariot required on the day of Mourning of Muharram are kept in the Imambara premises during the year. Beautiful concrete motifs are also there throughout, mostly in decayed state. 

At the southern part of the building lie the grave of Haji Mohsin and his family members.

The renovation work is ongoing. Wished to see this grand structure regaining its lost glory soon.

Views of Ganges & Hooghly Town from Top of the Clock Tower

More Shots from Imambara -

How to Reach? -

Take a Bandel Local or Burdwan Local (main line) from Howrah station and get down at Hooghly Station. From there hire a rickshaw to reach the Imambara. The fare is around Rs.25-30 but don't forget to bargain.

Timings & Entry Fee - 

The Imambara opens in the morning and the visiting hours is up to 6 pm. The Prayer Hall closes at 5 pm though. The entry fee is Rs.10 per person (as on August, 2015) and entry is free for children below five.

Other Nearby Tourist Attractions -  

• Jubilee Bridge - Close to Imambara
• Bandel Church - Can be reached by rickshaw or Tuktuk.

Visit Rangan Datta's post on Bandel to know more. 

Acknowledgements:

• My father Dilip Chandra for accompanying me on this trip and sharing interesting anecdotes.
• My mother Nibedita Chandra who herself being an ex-student of Hooghly Mohsin College, told me numerous stories of Mohsin from Childhood which intrigued me on the matter.
• Sreecheta Mukherjee's article on Hooghly Imambara in Chitrolekha International Magazine, without which the post would not have been possible.
• Wikipedia Articles.