This week WANDERLUST takes you to the Kingdom in Creepers - GARH PANCHKOT, an ancient East Indian Kingdom, through the words of my long-term buddy Abhijit who explored the same in August, 2014 and now presents it before you.
Last year August, managed to take out a 3 day leave from my busy corporate life and set out for a weekend trip to Garh Panchkot. Though discovered only a few decades back, but this place carries a very interesting story about itself. As I believe, the 'STORY's which you can actually live by visiting those places are termed as (HI)STORY.
GARH PANCHKOT DIARY
Last year August, managed to take out a 3 day leave from my busy corporate life and set out for a weekend trip to Garh Panchkot. Though discovered only a few decades back, but this place carries a very interesting story about itself. As I believe, the 'STORY's which you can actually live by visiting those places are termed as (HI)STORY.
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| PANCHARATNA TEMPLE |
Let me first start with the interpretation/etymology of its name. The name Garh Panchkot can be divided into 3 parts - 1. 'Garh' means Fort, 2. 'Panch' means Five and 3. 'Kot' or rather the tribal term 'Khunt' means Clan. This area was used to be inhabited by 5 tribal clans being named as Panch Khunt or Panchkot which was later simplified as Panchet by the British. Panchet Hill (640m approx.) is actually a part of the Chhotonagpur Plateau. Presently this area falls under the Jangalmahal of Purulia District, WB.
To brief the history of Garh Panchkot, I'll have to take you a few centuries back. Panchkot was ruled by the Singh Deo Dynasty. Around 90 A.D., King Damodar Sekhar established the Panchkot Raj although the names of the later rulers are unknown. Singh Deo dynasty kept on ruling there until mid 18th century when the Marathas, better known as 'Bargis' invaded Panchkot. Although it is said that Singh Deos lost Panchkot to the great Mallya King Bir Hambir for some time but managed to recover it later against some understanding with the Mallyaraj.
Now the question is why did Bargis attack Panchkot? Marathas themselves did not plan to attack Bengal. It was quite unfortunate for Panchkot that they ended up being the sufferer of the rivalry between two other antagonists - Alivardi Khan and Rustam Jung. In 1740, Alivardi Khan became the Nawab of Bengal by defeating and killing Sarfiraz Khan. Rustam Jung, who was the brother-in-law of Sarfiraz Khan tried to take revenge on Alivardi Khan but failed, which made him realize that he could not defeat Alivardi with his own capacity. He approached Raghoji Bhonsle, the Maratha ruler of Nagpur for help. Raghoji sent a cavalry which entered into Bengal through Panchet and started looting and ransacking. It is assumed that then only Garh Panchkot was attacked by the Bargis and plundered. The King fled away and it is believed by the locals that his 17 wives committed suicide in a nearby well so that the Bargis could not touch them. This well is still there but it is almost filled with earth with the passage of time. It is also believed by them that the jeweleries and ornaments of the 17 Queens can still be dug out from the well. So, this was all about the history of Garh Panchkot.
Whatever is left at Garh Panchkot now is all ruins. While entering the area, first you will find the remainings of the ancient Kalyaneswari Temple which was later shifted o its present location at Maithon. Then you will find some temple like structures built in terracotta style, more precisely Jor-Bangla type like those in Bishnupur. The principal one being a Pancharatna Temple (Temple with 5 Pinnacles, though one is missing now). It carries some depleted but exquisite pre-muslim period terracotta work in its arches and pillars. The motifs on the temple structures, though in a poor state, carries images of the characters from Hindu Mythologies (such as 'Ganesha' or 'Radha-Krishna'). But all of those were not temples. Some were used to be the Watch Towers. There is also the ruins of a 'Singha-Dwar'. The main palace is about 7 kms from the 'Singha-Dwar' and is almost inaccessible as the path is through a dense forest.
The Fort for which the name Garh Panchkot has come, refers to the Guard Quarters located at the slope of the Panchkot hill at a height of about 600 meteres from the ground. The path leading to the Quarters usually remains covered with thick vegetation. As I visited just after the monsoon, I could not reach there but you can give it a try during winter. As learned from the locals that the Guard Quarters can also be seen from the plains during the winter season when the forest is less dense. A semi circular moat was built as a security measure which has now shortened to a pond like water body. Some stone temples are also there in the vicinity inside the forest.
Though the architecture of the temples are similar to those in Bishnupur, Garh Panchkot has not been that privileged to get a makeover or restoration by Government. Once met the Director of State Archaeological Museum, WB and asked her whether they have any plan to restore Garh Panchkot. Came to know that it is already in the agenda of WB Heritage Commission but no one knows the expected time line.
Still to finish on a positive note, I can say that these dilapidated structures have their own charm which you may not find in the restored ones. A thrill like exploring something unknown can be felt here. So, if old structures excite you and like me if you see yourself as Indiana Jones in dreams, you have to be there. Don't wait for long as it is vanishing brick by brick every passing day.
Yes, one more thing, while there, be very attentive or else you might miss the whispers of the History !!
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| WATCH TOWER (L) & Its Flight of Stairs in a dilapidated state (R) |
Whatever is left at Garh Panchkot now is all ruins. While entering the area, first you will find the remainings of the ancient Kalyaneswari Temple which was later shifted o its present location at Maithon. Then you will find some temple like structures built in terracotta style, more precisely Jor-Bangla type like those in Bishnupur. The principal one being a Pancharatna Temple (Temple with 5 Pinnacles, though one is missing now). It carries some depleted but exquisite pre-muslim period terracotta work in its arches and pillars. The motifs on the temple structures, though in a poor state, carries images of the characters from Hindu Mythologies (such as 'Ganesha' or 'Radha-Krishna'). But all of those were not temples. Some were used to be the Watch Towers. There is also the ruins of a 'Singha-Dwar'. The main palace is about 7 kms from the 'Singha-Dwar' and is almost inaccessible as the path is through a dense forest.
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| OTHER STRUCTURES OF THE BYGONE ERA NEARBY |
The Fort for which the name Garh Panchkot has come, refers to the Guard Quarters located at the slope of the Panchkot hill at a height of about 600 meteres from the ground. The path leading to the Quarters usually remains covered with thick vegetation. As I visited just after the monsoon, I could not reach there but you can give it a try during winter. As learned from the locals that the Guard Quarters can also be seen from the plains during the winter season when the forest is less dense. A semi circular moat was built as a security measure which has now shortened to a pond like water body. Some stone temples are also there in the vicinity inside the forest.
 |
| ORNAMENTATION & MOTIFS ON THE STRUCTURES (Motifs of Radha-Krishna and Ganesha, 1st & 2nd from Right) |
Though the architecture of the temples are similar to those in Bishnupur, Garh Panchkot has not been that privileged to get a makeover or restoration by Government. Once met the Director of State Archaeological Museum, WB and asked her whether they have any plan to restore Garh Panchkot. Came to know that it is already in the agenda of WB Heritage Commission but no one knows the expected time line.
Still to finish on a positive note, I can say that these dilapidated structures have their own charm which you may not find in the restored ones. A thrill like exploring something unknown can be felt here. So, if old structures excite you and like me if you see yourself as Indiana Jones in dreams, you have to be there. Don't wait for long as it is vanishing brick by brick every passing day.
Yes, one more thing, while there, be very attentive or else you might miss the whispers of the History !!
How to Reach -
The easiest way to reach is via Maithon. Take Black Diamond Express and get down at Kumardhubi station. From there auto-rickshaws will take you to Maithon within 15-20 minutes. From Maithon, cars and auto-rickshaws can be hired for Garh Panchkot.Where to Stay -
I stayed at the DVC Bungalow 'Mazumdar Niwas' in Maithon. Booking can be done physically from DVC Towers, CIT Housing Complex, VIP Road. Kolkata - 700 054. (Tel - 033 23332115) one month prior to the trip. Other hotels are also available at Maithon but the 'Mazumdar Niwas' is undoubtedly the best. Also there is a resort of WB Forest Dept. at Garh Panchkot. Online booking can be done from their portal.Where to Eat -
At the place of your stay.What Else to See -
- Jaichandi pahar, where some parts of the movie 'Hirak Rajar Deshe' were shot.
- Birinchi Than.
- Panchet & Maithon Dams.
- Kalyaneswari Temple.
- Hydel Power Project of DVC (with prior permission).
Best Time to Visit -
Any time, preferably in Winter.
- by Abhijit Das
About ABHIJIT :
Abhijit is a finance professional, at present working at a leading Software MNC. Being a History buff and a curious personality by nature, he is actually a punch of Indiana Jones and Robert Langdon. Whenever gets an opportunity, Abhijit encashes it for sure and accompanied by his own Wanderlust, starts his voyage to explore a piece of history, either in Calcutta or abroad.
When I requested him to write a guest post for my blog's article#13 he readily agreed and sent me his Garh Panchkot Travelogue next day. Hope you liked it. In near future, I shall expect more from him and I'm sure that my bosom friend wouldn't disappoint any of us.
That is a very interesting combo of story and history. Quite intriguing.
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